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I know that you are not going to start paddling out in 5-foot swells, but that's fine. Just paddle out in the waves you can handle, and try to find yourself a good spot where you can go and try.
Also, concentrate on your legs and your upper body. It's not really how tall or short you are or how muscular your legs are. It's about your balance. You cannot just wait for the wave to come at you. You need to paddle out in a wave, not a bunch of waves.
You may not feel like you are paddling, but you are. When you get up on your board, there is a part of your body that knows how to stay up on it. This is your hip, and if you try to relax your hips, you will fall off. So try to focus on your core and keep that part of your body tight. This is going to take a bit of practice.
Next step is to ride the waves. Stand up on your surfboard and make paddling motions. Stand up on your surfboard and make paddling motions. And count to 100 and make paddling motions. Count to 100 and make paddling motions. Stand up on your surfboard and make some paddling motions. Make sure you stand up on your surfboard and make some paddling motions. Count to 100 and make paddling motions.
Now that you’ve paddled up to 100, it’s time to really start surfing. Stand up on your surfboard and start paddling, count to 100 and make paddling motions. Count to 100 and make paddling motions. Be careful and make sure that you still stand up on your surfboard. Stand up on your surfboard and make some paddling motions. Count to 100 and make some paddling motions.
Start counting from 1 to 100, and then start paddling. Stand up on your surfboard and start paddling. Count to 100 and then make some paddling motions. Count to 100 and then make some paddling motions. Make sure you do it right.
The better sequence is to take the paddle, swing the board out slightly, and bring the paddle in line with the feet. When the feet and paddle are in line, that's when the board is balanced. The beginner is going to struggle to do that, so they should be encouraged to make progress in that direction, before they get too ambitious. 827ec27edc